Holiday review

A Family Road Trip Around Morocco: Exploring Essaouira, Oualidia, and El Jadida

July 2024

After countless road trips around Europe (our children are well-trained in the art of long car journeys — snacks packed, playlists queued, complaints saved for later), it felt like the right time to take our family travels a little further afield and embrace a bigger adventure.

Morocco had been on our minds for a while; both my husband and I had travelled there before children and loved the culture, so returning with the kids felt exciting rather than intimidating. With the children a little older and our sense of adventure firmly intact, we packed up the car and set off on a Moroccan road trip filled with ancient cities, dramatic landscapes, beachside downtime, and wonderfully vibrant moments that made us laugh daily. It’s an experience we’ll be talking about for years to come.

Here’s a look at our unforgettable journey around Morocco, including stops in Essaouira, Oualidia, and El Jadida.

Setting Off: The Open Road Awaits!

We kicked off our adventure in Essaouira, a laid-back coastal city with a bohemian feel. After landing, we picked up our hire car at Essaouira airport and hit the road — snacks secured, children buckled in, optimism high. Driving in Morocco quickly proved to be an adventure in itself. The scenery changes in the blink of an eye, the roads are full of life, and just when you think you’ve got the hang of it, you round a corner to find a donkey with right of way or a lorry stacked so high it seems to be operating on hope alone. It was lively, unpredictable, and hugely entertaining — and from the very first drive, we knew this road trip was going to be anything but ordinary!

Stop 1: Essaouira – A Coastal Gem

Our first stop was Essaouira, a delightful coastal city where waves crash against the shore, the air carries a hint of spices, and the winding streets of the Medina are full of small, tempting discoveries. Known for its laid-back atmosphere, Essaouira felt like the perfect place to ease into our road trip.

Our first four nights were spent at Le Medina Essaouira Thalassa Sea & Spa MGallery, a lovely hotel just a short walk from the Medina and perfectly positioned right by the beach. We stayed in a spacious family room made up of two connecting rooms, complete with a great little balcony — ideal for a quiet moment before the day (or a deep breath after it). Breakfast quickly became a highlight: plenty of choice, wonderfully friendly staff, and an impressive willingness to produce what felt like an endless supply of pancakes for the children. It made the perfect base for exploring Essaouira, and the fantastic pool was a huge hit, giving the kids plenty of space to swim themselves happily exhausted each afternoon.

Worth noting that the beaches in Essaouira are more characterful than conventionally beautiful — breezy, busy, slightly chaotic, and very much there to be used rather than admired. They’re the kind of beaches made for kite surfers, donkey sightings, and long, sandy walks rather than neatly arranged sun loungers!

Whilst in Essaouira we did, eventually, manage to pull ourselves away from the pool (and our books). We spent time exploring the Medina of Essaouira, a UNESCO World Heritage site where narrow alleyways are crammed with colourful textiles, intricate jewellery, and the unmistakable scent of spices drifting through the air. We happily lost hours wandering, soaking up the lively atmosphere, and sampling far too many local treats along the way. And of course, no visit to Essaouira would be complete without a camel ride along the beach. We booked with Zouina Cheval and couldn’t fault them. The children were instantly sold (well… one of them was) — apparently riding camels through the sand beats every other form of transport we’ve tried so far. With the sea breeze in our hair and the sun beginning to dip, it felt wonderfully atmospheric, calm, and just a little bit magical.

Eating out in Essaouira — as with much of Morocco — does benefit from a little planning and preparation. Reading reviews is time well spent, and we’ve learned not to be afraid to turn around if somewhere doesn’t quite look or feel right for our family. Having visited Essaouira before, we knew we’d be spoilt for choice, and we weren’t disappointed. One of our firm favourites was Salut Maroc, a brilliant spot for dinner with colourful interiors, delicious food, and sweeping views over the ocean. We loved it so much that we couldn’t resist coming back later in the trip — always the sign of a good find.

We also returned to Clé de Voûte Essaouira, a restaurant we first visited twelve years ago. It offers a wonderful fusion of Moroccan flavours with French-inspired dishes. While it’s definitely on the fancier side, the children were made very welcome — the waiter even went out of his way to track down a freshly squeezed orange juice, which went down a treat.

Stop 2: Oualidia – A Tranquil Coastal Retreat

After a few days in Essaouira, we hit the road again and headed north towards Oualidia, a peaceful coastal town around a three-hour drive away. Known for its calm lagoon and unhurried pace, Oualidia felt like an intentional pause in our journey — a place to slow down, stop rushing, and simply be together.

Before that though, we had to get there! The drive itself was fairly bonkers — winding through lively market towns before giving way to a brief, almost eerily quiet stretch of motorway. We stayed in a lovely Airbnb on the outskirts of town and were very grateful to be met by the owner on arrival — we’re fairly sure we wouldn’t have found it otherwise!

Oualidia couldn’t be more different from Essaouira. It sits quietly off the tourist trail, which is exactly its appeal, but it does mean limited shops and supplies. We stocked up beforehand at the large and incredibly well stocked Carrefour in Essaouira — a decision we were quietly grateful for. In town, life feels simple: fresh bread bought daily, unplanned days, and very little to tick off a list.

Our Airbnb reflected that slower rhythm perfectly. Days were spent drifting between the infinity pool, shaded corners with a book, and gentle swims, with no real agenda. Evenings became our favourite time — watching the sun melt into the lagoon, listening to the sounds of nature, and spotting birds and other small wildlife with the children as the light faded. The owner would occasionally appear with freshly blended fruit smoothies, and the gardener with a football or pool floats — small, thoughtful gestures that gently encouraged us to slow down even more.

Stop 3: El Jadida – A Blend of History and Charm

Next up was El Jadida, a coastal city around a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Oualidia. With its mix of Portuguese and Moroccan history, it felt like a logical stop on our route — although, in reality, it turned out to be more of a practical pause than a destination we’d rush back to.

We stayed at the Pullman Mazagan Royal Golf & Spa, which worked well for us as a family base. The pool, beach access, and organised children’s activities (from archery to water volleyball) were definite highlights and gave everyone a chance to reset after a few busy travel days. While the dining options weren’t quite what we’d expect from a hotel of this calibre, the poolside lunches were excellent and became our reliable favourite.

True to family road trip form, we also ticked off a visit to McDonald’s — and can confirm that Moroccan McDonald’s is comfortingly familiar, sometimes exactly what’s needed when travel fatigue sets in.

We did venture into the city one afternoon, but it quickly became clear that El Jadida wasn’t really our place. The environment felt challenging for the children, and even a highly-rated local restaurant proved too much for them to feel comfortable in. It’s fair to say we wouldn’t rush back — but that’s part of travel too. Not every stop becomes a favourite, not every plan works out, and not every destination suits every family. Road trips aren’t just about the highlights — they’re about the shared experiences, the unexpected turns, and the stories you bring home. Even the stops that don’t quite land still become part of the adventure, part of the learning, and part of the family memories you end up laughing about later.

The Road Home: Wrapping Up the Journey

For our final stop, we headed back to Essaouira. After a few days in El Jadida, returning felt familiar and comforting — by this point we were all properly relaxed and full of wonderful memories from the road. We spent our last few days revisiting favourite spots, soaking up the sunshine, and enjoying the food, sights, and sounds that had made us fall for Essaouira in the first place.

This time, we stayed in a lovely Airbnb just outside of town, complete with a private pool and large, peaceful gardens — the perfect setting for winding down. One afternoon was spent sand surfing in the nearby dunes, which was great fun for everyone… although it did result in a torn meniscus for me — not quite the holiday souvenir I’d had in mind. We also made our way back into the Medina for relaxed dinners and final wanderings, savouring those last evenings when you know a trip is drawing to a close but you’re not quite ready to leave.

We couldn’t have planned a better final day. With a late afternoon flight but an Airbnb checkout to navigate, we booked ourselves into Jardins de Villa Maroc — and I’d return there in a heartbeat. It was simply incredible. The pool was pure bliss, the setting felt calm and indulgent, and the lunchtime buffet was genuinely divine: beautiful salads, perfectly grilled sardines fresh from the BBQ, and the most delicious merguez sausages. It was the kind of slow, sun-soaked afternoon that felt like a reward for the journey — a perfect full stop to our time in Essaouira and a reminder of why we loved this trip so much.

Final Thoughts: A Family Road Trip to Remember

Our family road trip around Morocco was an unforgettable adventure — one that gave us memories we’ll be talking about for years to come. From the laid-back coastal charm of Essaouira to the peaceful lagoon at Oualidia, every stop brought something different, whether it was cultural discovery, quiet downtime, or a moment that caught us completely by surprise.

We loved the freedom of exploring Morocco by car, but it’s definitely not for the faint-hearted. At times it was stressful (particularly for my husband, who bravely did all the driving), and it’s not something to take on lightly. That said, road tripping gave us the chance to see places we’d never have reached otherwise, take detours off the beaten path, and experience Morocco at our own pace as a family. Would we do it again? Probably — but perhaps after a little recovery time. For now, we might stick to road tripping around Europe for a while… at least until the memories fade and the itch for another adventure returns.

Happy travels!

1 thought on “A Family Road Trip Around Morocco: Exploring Essaouira, Oualidia, and El Jadida”

Leave a comment