Budapest with children

April 2023

We’ve just returned from the most amazing short break to Budapest, Hungary. It’s a city I, Charlotte, have been to before but this was our first trip as a family.

Accommodation

As usual, we checked into a fab Airbnb right in the centre of the city (2 minutes from St. Stephen’s Basilica). We couldn’t have asked for more in terms of the location – loads of transport options on our door step, an easy walk to the bustling Jewish Quarter and in the other direction to the Parliament building and plenty of fab restaurants and cafes. The flat was ideal for our little family – plenty of space to relax after a busy day of sightseeing, great WIFI, air-con if needed and a peaceful nights sleep. The hosts were super helpful and were on hand both before and during the stay with restaurant recommendations and answers to any questions we had.

If you’re looking at accommodation in Budapest – I would suggest you stay on the Pest side to be within walking distance of the top sights and it will make getting around much easier. Avoid inner District 7 when booking your accommodation – this is Budapest’s party district (a great place to visit for the Ruin bars etc but not for sleeping)!

Budapest Airport

Budapest airport is, of course, like most international airports! Just a few top tips….

• There’s a little play area in the Departures area (it’s upstairs near the Costa Coffee café). It didn’t really interest our two but would be ideal for those with children under 7 or 8 years old.
• There were loads of high chairs in the airport cafes and plenty of baby changing facilities. I also saw microwaves in the main café area upstairs.
• There’s a well stocked supermarket in the Arrivals terminal – handy if, like us, you’re arriving on a late night flight and need to pick up some urgent supplies (i.e. crisps and wine!).

Getting around the city

We’ve travelled a fair bit, both before the children and with and it’s rare to come across a city that’s so easy to navigate as a tourist. If you’re arriving into the main airport you can either hop on the Airport bus – find out more about this service and all the other amazing transport options here or jump in a taxi (which is what we did!). If you opt for the taxi it couldn’t be easier…just outside the main terminals you’ll find a Főtaxi (the official company in Budapest Airport) booth and you can reserve your taxi there. It’s really straightforward – you tell the person in the booth where you want to go (and of course they speak perfect English) and then a taxi pulls up. We were able to pay by card or cash.

Once in the city, you’ll find it all just as easy. It’s a fairly compact city in many ways so it would, perhaps without little people, be pretty easy to reach most places on foot. However….we all know what children can be like! Whilst we did do lots of walking (averaging 7 miles per day!) we also chose to jump on and off the trams, underground trains, busses etc. I would suggest you download the GoBudapest app where you’ll be able to buy your digital tickets and plan your routes.

The city is also served by Bolt Taxis – so perhaps download the app in advance!

Day 1

So, having arrived on a late night flight, we started with a lazy breakfast in the gorgeous Artizán bakery, a short stroll from the apartment.

Do check out this fab page for a whole load more delicious bakeries in the city – they all look so tempting!

So, now revived we were ready to explore. The sun was shining (such a novelty after the particularly dreary winter we’d had in the UK!) so we strolled down towards the magnificent Parliament building on the banks of the Danube (you could also take the underground to Kossuth Tér station on the M2 metro line or Tram 2 to Kossuth Lajos Square Station).

It’s easily one of the most recognisable buildings in Hungary and for good reason! The Parliament Building is located at Kossuth Lajos square (which is pretty impressive in it’s own right!). The large open space around the Parliament is perfect to enjoy the stunning views of the city and there were plenty of benches for tired legs. You’ll find yourself catching a glimpse of the building from various places in the city. One of our favourite views was actually from the other side of the Danube (you could head to Batthyány Square on the Buda side), where you can easily see the entire building. From afar, you can better appreciate the power such a domineering structure can evoke.

If you’re keen to look inside then you’ll need to book in advance. We didn’t think this would be particularly interesting for the children so we chose instead to take a leisurely stroll along the Danube promenade and capture (or attempt to capture!) some postcard-worthy photos of the building on route to Margaret Island.

Margaret Island

Margaret Island, a green oasis in the middle of the Danube, is the perfect place to head if you find yourself in the city on a sunny day. It’s easy enough to get to – we took bus number 26 which runs right down the middle of the island but you could also hop off beforehand and walk over the bridge.

Margaret Island (Margitsziget) is around 500 meters wide and around 2.5 km in length, between Árpád Hid (Arpad Bridge) on the north and Margit Hid (Margaret Bridge) on the south. You can apparently walk an entire loop around the island in about an hour and a half, or walk from one end to the other in about 45 minutes. We chose a slightly cooler form of transport – hiring one of the four seater bikes from a vendor at the Margit Bridge entrance.

First up for us though was a trip to the Palatinus pools. Budapest is famous for its thermal baths but many of the better known ones are either really expensive and/or funny about children coming in. After much research, I settled on the Palatinus pools and they were perfect for us and pretty cheap at just under the equivalent of £20 for all of us. Not only are there thermal pools but in the summer months there are also adventure pools, water slides and a famous wave pool, active once an hour in summer. It really would be the ideal place to spend a whole day on a summers day. Don’t just take my word for it though – Palatinus was named one of the best outdoor swimming pools in the world!

Top tips for visiting the thermal baths in Budapest:

• Pack towels if you’re planning on visiting some thermal baths – perhaps consider investing in some from Dock and Bay – they fold up really small and dry ridiculously quickly! If you don’t have towels you’ll need to pay for some and they seemed quite expensive compared to the entrance fee.
• Don’t be intimidated by all the rules/instructions at the pool. The staff were really friendly and very helpful! It was pretty clear to them that we had no idea how it all worked!

So, after a few hours lounging in the thermal water outside in the sun (bliss!) we strolled through the park in search of lunch. We stumbled across Hippie Island, an open air pub and café on the water’s edge, with plenty of seats on various terraces and an eclectic menu including pizza, sandwiches, risotto, and Hungarian favourites. Whilst it was pretty vibrant for a weekday we didn’t need to book in advance but I suspect that in the summer months it could get pretty busy!

Tram Number 2

So, having spent the morning relaxing on Margaret Island (including hiring the crazy four seater bike!) we walked back across the bridge to the Pest side of the city in search of Tram No 2 (and a rest for our legs!). Why Tram No 2 you might ask….well a few years ago, National Geographic collected the top 10 trolley rides in the world, and Tram No2 in Budapest was on the list! You can find out about the various places you see on route here but basically it follows the Danube and passes near several famous sights and crosses the Danube, linking Buda with Pest. The views of the Buda hills, the castle and the Fisherman Bastion were pretty cool! So, if you’re short of time whilst in the city, hop on and off Tram No2 and you’ll be sure to see most things!

Central Market Budapest

Revived from our trip on Tram No2 we jumped off at the Central Market Hall, a building that is a captivating testament to the city’s history. Built in 1897, it stands as the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest. If you’re here with little people, there’s a small playground on Fovam Square, just opposite the market and plenty of shady benches to have a snack or picnic.

Our two not so little people loved exploring all that the market had to offer (so much so we actually came back on our last day for some souvenir shopping!). You can get all sorts of goods on the 3 floors: fruits, vegetables, dairy products, fantastic salamis, pickles, fresh fish, Hungarian paprika, Tokaj wines, various souvenirs, bags, clothes, pans and pots, and even home style meals, or Hungarian snacks like Langos at the upper floor food stands and eateries. It’s worth noting that the market hall is not open on Sundays so plan your visit with this in mind!

Our final stop before heading back to our apartment was a visit to Waffle and Love – an incredible waffle café a short stroll from the Market Hall. Our two children consider themselves waffle experts (and they’ve tasted enough in their short lives!) and they tell me they were the best ever!

Dinner

After a short (but very welcome) rest back at the apartment we jumped in a Bolt taxi to Mazel Tov, a funky, urban, garden style restaurant and ruin bar in the heart of the Jewish Quarter. We had booked well in advance and it was a good job – the queue was out the door by the time we left! The food was incredible (ok so not particularly child friendly but they coped!) – a sort of fusion between middle eastern and Mediterranean! Do try and pop along!

Day 2

Day 2 started with another breakfast at Artizán bakery. I’m always keen to try new places but this bakery was in exactly the right direction so it seemed to make sense!

So, after breakfast we strolled down to the Parliament building in search of the ‘Shoes on the Danube’ – 60 pairs of cast-iron shoes placed on the edge of the Danube in memory of the hundreds of Budapest Jews who were lined up on the river bank, ordered to remove their shoes, and shot into the river. The memorial has shoes of all sizes, including children’s shoes. A harrowing sight, and perhaps not one you’d immediately think to take children to, but for us it’s always important to find ways to engage them in conversations that matter. The shoes are open to all and free to view. There are several memorials to the Jews lost in the Holocaust across Budapest. You can also visit the Great Synagogue (the second largest in the world).

In need of something a little less serious we jumped back on Tram No2 and crossed over onto the Buda side of the city in search of the Gellert Hill Slides Play Park. We followed the instructions on this page and found it easily. The park makes the most of the steep hill (and the stunning views!) with 5 long slides in a variety of designs. There are also climbing walls back up the hill, sandpits and plenty of benches. We stayed for around an hour – the children playing and us soaking up the sun.

People often ask why we ‘waste time visiting playparks on holiday’ – my answer is always that holidays are about compromise – there has to be something for everyone. Besides, it’s actually one of things I love most about travelling with children – getting to experience different sides of the city, seeing it through the eyes of locals. Play park tourism is real!

Next up was the Castle area. We had originally hoped to take the funicular up but unfortunately it was closed for renovation whilst we were there. Instead, we hopped on another bus (through the cool tunnel under the castle!) and then made our way, on foot, up to the castle area. The Buda Castle (more like a palace!) is one of the main symbols of Budapest. It dominates the city from the top of Várhegy hill and the views are incredible! You can of course go into the castle and visit the various museums but with the children in tow, we chose to soak up the atmosphere! Whilst up at the castle don’t forget to visit the Fisherman’s Bastion: the ideal place to admire the entire city of Budapest (and take some great photos!). Whilst up there you could check out this amazing rooftop bar (pricy but great views!).

To be honest, this was my least favourite area of the city – it was full of tour groups and guides and just felt a little crazy. It might be best to check this area out early in the morning or later in the afternoon if, like us, you’re keen to avoid the crowds. So, with some sightseeing under our belt we enjoyed a little walk around the castle walls before heading down to Vagon Etterem for lunch. Vagon Etterem is a low-key restaurant housed in an old train carriage on the edge of a lovely park on the Buda side. I had booked in advance (via Facebook) but I think you’d be fine to turn up, particularly at lunch time. We all enjoyed trying some local Hungarian specialities but there was plenty of other options (including pizza!).

From here we went over to Heroes Square and then onto the main City park (Városliget). This page has a full guide to everything in the park. The highlight had to be the ‘Main play park’ (one of three in the park). If you’re keen to save your legs then the easiest way to access it is from the bus stop Benczur Utca (Bus 30,30A,230,79) and Dvorak Setany (Bus 70) – both around a 5 min walk.

The park was newly renovated in 2019 and there really is something for all ages – from trampolines, massive climbing areas (including a pretty cool hot air balloon!), timed slides with traffic lights and crazy swings! Better still, there is a lovely café serving delicious coffee and yummy banana bread (as well as lots of other things!). It’s worth noting that there are really clean public toilets in the play park and plenty of places for picnics.

After an afternoon of playing (and now starting to flag) we jumped on the bus on route to Szimpla Kert (meaning Simple Garden) – the original ruin bar in the Jewish Quarter. Before leaving for Budapest I had read endless articles about whether you could take children to Ruin bars etc. We were there around 4.30pm and it was absolutely fine – they were both welcomed by the staff and it all felt very family friendly. Like all bars I’m sure it gets more rowdy in the evening but it felt very safe and family friendly during the day. The children loved looking around and soaking up the unique atmosphere, an atmosphere that comes partly from its location amidst ruins, but also from its quirky and chaotic decor.

After a quick rest back at the apartment (much needed!), we walked the short distance to Vak Varju (it had been recommended by our Airbnb host). Do book in advance because it was packed and they were turning people away all night. We all enjoyed a delicious meal (think traditional Hungarian with a European twist), friendly service and the children loved the magnetic 4 x 4 type game on the wall next to the table!

Day 3

Our final day in the city before catching an early evening flight home. Having had breakfast in the same (wonderful!) café for two mornings we set out in search of somewhere new. We had read about Kiskovász Pékség (on Nagymezo Utca 36). – it was definitely worth the short walk! Much more traditional than the previous mornings (a small, rustic bakery with a a few tables) but simply incredible croissants (fresh out of the oven!), delicious coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice. There wasn’t much space inside but we found plenty of benches near the Opera House.

Before heading off for the day we checked our bags into the Stow Bags luggage store (freeing us up for day of adventures), conveniently located underneath our Airbnb. We had booked in advance (all very easy online) and it was a pretty small set up so they could easily fill up. They have bases all over Europe so I’m we’ll be using them again!

There wasn’t much on the agenda for our final day. The children were keen to go back to the Central Market (for some retail therapy!) so we started with a quick trip there.

Whilst there were plenty of museums etc that we could visit, the weather was still glorious and it felt nice to be outside and enjoying the Spring sunshine. So, after some souvenir shopping in the market we went back to the main city park. We (the adults!) parked ourselves in the café with a much needed coffee whilst the children played.

Lunch was to be had in the Jewish Quarter (one of our favourite areas in the City). We had read about the amazing Street art in Budapest so thought we’d combine the two activities for our final afternoon. Throughout the former Jewish neighbourhood, bland building façades have been covered in colourful street art. You can read more about all the art and sign up for a walking tour (sounds cool!) here. The children were particularly keen to see the giant Rubik’s cube on Rumbach Sebestyén road (they had recently become obsessed with the things!). This 250 m2 Rubik’s cube was painted in 2014 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Erno Rubik’s famous cube…..it was pretty cool to see it!

From here it was just a short walk to Moto Pizza – a lively pizza shop smack in the middle of Budapest’s fashionable Jewish Quarter on Madách tér (with two additional locations in the city). The pizza’s were freshly made, prepared within minutes in a domed wood-fired pizza oven in the corner and completely delicious!

It was now time to head back to the airport – so we collected our bags from the luggage store, grabbed a final chimney cake (a speciality of the city) and jumped in a Bolt taxi back to the airport.

City’s are such cool places to hang out with children – they really adapt to their changing ages and interests. We’ll definitely visit Budapest again and I’m sure we’ll find a whole load of other amazing things to visit!

Thanks for reading. Do send over any questions you have!