Sicily – Summer 2023

Summer 2023 was upon us (well it was January and I needed to start planning!) and once again we found flight prices to be stupidly high. As with last year’s trip to Zadar, we settled on Sicily, in part, because the flight prices were cheaper than sunny rivals like Greece, Spain etc.

Now, what I should do is start discussing the holiday, where we stayed, where we visited etc (and I promise I will do that!) but first some context….we had a lovely week in Sicily (I promise, more about that below!) and were due to fly home on the Friday, when (on the Thursday afternoon!), our flight was cancelled (thank you Easyjet!). We re-booked onto the Saturday flight and guess what? This flight was also cancelled. We re-booked onto another flight, this time from Palermo (the other side of the island!) and via Amsterdam (I know I like to travel but come on!) on the Monday (so 3 days later than planned) and this flight took off (only just though because forest fires at Palermo meant we were one of the last flights to depart) but our onward travel from Amsterdam was cancelled (you couldn’t write this!). We eventually arrived in London 4 days later than planned. So what was planned as a 7 day holiday became a twin centre adventure!

So, back to the holiday itself.

Accommodation

Once again we chose to stay in an Airbnb apartment in a little town called Mascalucia (around 30 minutes from Catania airport). As always, we felt that an apartment offered us everything we needed – two bedrooms and space to hang out plus the added bonus of a kitchen (I know it’s not for everyone but I actually love cooking on holiday – I have more time than at home and the ingredients are always so lovely!). This apartment had a wonderful (and very large!) swimming pool that we shared with 2 other small apartments (although in reality we didn’t actually see anyone else!) and the old palazzo made for a stunning backdrop. The owner, Claudia, was a delight, taking the time to show us around the grounds (which were extensive!), offering us several restaurant/cafe recommendations and giving us the most divine fresh lemons and tomatoes.

The apartment was well placed for exploring the sites of Sicily (close to Etna and sandwiched between Taormina in the north and Syracuse in the south), so after lounging by the pool in the mornings we braved the 44degree heat to explore some of what this magical island had to offer.

Mount Etna

No trip to this part of the island would be complete without a trip up Europe’s largest and most active volcano. At the time of writing this blog, it had been fairly active (with an eruption in May 2023 and one shortly after our visit in August 2023). Of course, any visit up Etna needs to be done with one eye on the news! As you would expect, there are plenty of tours that you can book onto but with little people in tow these never really work (and always feel super expensive!). Instead, we did Etna independently (not quite as adventurous as it sounds!) and here’s how….

First up, you need to make your way to Rifugio Sapienza – the base for most visits to Etna. There is plenty of parking (for cars and campervans) and lots of little gift shops and a couple of restaurants/cafes. I didn’t spot a supermarket so pack supplies if you’ll need them. The road up to Rifugio Sapienza is fairly windy but it was easy enough in our little hire car (and the views are stunning all the way up!). Once you’ve parked up you have some options. If you’re feeling very energetic (which we were most certainly not!) you can walk up to 2,900m without paying for any additional transport options from the visitor centre car park. If this is not for you then you can take the cable car from Rifugio Sapienza to a Mountain Hut (which also doubles as a cafeteria and has toilets). You could then also take (and pay for) a 4×4 bus to Torre Del Filosofo, from where the summit trek begins (with a guide that is included in the bus cost). This is what we did. It was a a wonderful experience but it comes with a hefty price tag!

If you embark on the full itinerary then it’s worth checking out the final bus times before you embark. We arrived early afternoon and only just had enough time to complete the full tour.

On route back to our apartment we stopped in Nicolosi, a small town around 30 minutes from Etna. We had booked to have dinner at Il Giardino (see their Facebook page here – I booked using Facebook messenger) having read amazing reviews online. We were not disappointed – it was probably one of the best meals I’ve ever had! The antipasto were divine (focaccia with burrata and fig, Etna mushrooms….) and the fresh pasta course was incredible (the pistachio cream was something else!).

Taormina

Taormina was around 55 minutes, by car, from our apartment. We parked down on the beach front in Parcheggio Mazzarò (we arrived at 4pm ish and it was packed so be prepared to wait!). Once we’d worked out how to find a space (you can essentially park wherever you like as long as you don’t block someone in!) and how to get a ticket (find the man in the little wooden hut!) we took the cable car up to the main city. You can find out the opening times and prices here. It only takes a few minutes to reach the town but the views are stunning so it’s worth it! With temperatures reaching 42degrees we went to the first ice cream parlour we found and from there planned our route to the amphitheatre. Taormina Amphitheatre (Teatro Greco Romano), see here for ticket prices and opening times, was initially built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC before being rebuilt and enlarged by the Romans. While known as an amphitheatre, the site is actually an ancient theatre – not the gladiatorial arena of the type normally meant by the term. As well as being a major draw for tourists to the city, today the theatre continues to be used for concerts, plays and other events. The amphitheatre offers the most incredible views over the sea and towards Etna on the horizon – take a bottle of water and perch on one of the stone benches and soak up the views! There are also a couple of cafes/bars at the top and some remarkably clean public toilets.

We didn’t linger in the amphitheatre – it was simply too hot to read all of the information on offer so before long we were browsing the selection of gift shops in Taormina and finding our restaurant for dinner. I’d booked a table at Trattoria da Nina having read reviews online but there were plenty of lovely looking restaurants in the town. We had a lovely meal, delicious food and typically welcoming hospitality before returning to the car via the cable car.

Syracuse

Syracuse was just over an hour from our Apartment (I’d like to say an easy drive but Sicilian driving is as bonkers as they say it is!). We parked near the train station and walked into the old town. The city is notable for its rich Greek and Roman history, culture, amphitheatres, architecture, and as the birthplace and home of the pre-eminent mathematician and engineer Archimedes. Ortigia, the small Baroque island in the historic center of Syracuse, is widely considered one of the most beautiful destinations in Sicily. I have to say it was my least favourite of the towns we visited but still well worth a trip. Before reaching the island of Ortigia we stopped at Voglia Matta – a gelateria and pasticceria that serves a tantalizing array of Sicilian sweets and possibly some of the best gelato in town!

We then strolled around the old town, dotted with impressive church facades, outdoor restaurants, elegant piazzas and surrounded by a crystalline sea. We briefly popped into the Cathedral of Syracuse, a Baroque church built upon the site of a Greek Temple dedicated to Athena (if only to dodge the 40 degree heat!). For dinner, we followed the locals to Antica Giudecca, a friendly hole-in-the-wall cafe that serves up the city’s best street food. Sicily’s famous oversized arancini rice balls, filled with ragù and spinach, come freshly fried for only €2, and the counter features a variety of savory pies and pizzas with various toppings. You’ll also find some daily specials, including a pasta, meat dish and vegetables. It was honestly one of the best foody experiences I’ve ever had!

Valley of Temples

Slightly further afield (just over 2 hours from our apartment) was Valley of the Temples – an extraordinary archaeological site in Agrigento. It is said to be one of the most outstanding examples of ancient Greek art and architecture and was recently used in the filming of the new Indiana Jones film. We didn’t feel we could miss out on the opportunity to visit whilst in Sicily!

There are two dusty carparks, at both the western and eastern entrances (it’s about 2km between the two entrances). They’re signposted, but in a bit of a confusing way, so our advice is to stick one in Google Maps and follow the directions. It doesn’t seem to matter which one you use (both have entrances/toilets etc). The only real inconvenience with the park layout is that, whichever car park or entrance you choose to enter from, you’ll have to walk back on yourself through the park to get back to your car. This, plus the heat, is why a whole load of local taxi drivers now offer a paid for shuttle service from the car parks to the opposite end (sounds confusing but really isn’t!). So, park at one car park and either walk and then take the shuttle back to your car or do as we did, take the shuttle to the western entrance and then walk back to the car.

We spent around an hour and a half walking around the various temples (and enjoying a much needed gelato in one of the cafe’s). We barely saw another person (probably something to do with the 42 degree heat!) which meant we got some awesome photos!

Beach at Catania

So, if, like us, a holiday isn’t quite complete without a trip to a beach then Sicily has plenty of stunning beaches to explore. Sicily boasts more than a dozen offshore islands and over 930 miles (1500km) of coastline on the Ionian, Tyrrhenian and Mediterranean seas….it really does have something for everyone! While Sicilian beaches are often of the pebbly variety, with fewer sandy expanses than other Mediterranean hotspots, the coastal scenery here is some of Europe’s most dramatic, with deep-blue, turquoise, and emerald green waters framed by rugged rocky outcrops; swimming conditions are at their best from June to early October.

We were blessed with a wonderful pool at our apartment and to be honest it was far too hot to be dragging the children off in the car each day.

On our first day, having just arrived into Catania on a stupidly early morning flight and not able to get into our Airbnb until late afternoon, we bailed into Lido Azzuro. Now this isn’t a picture perfect beach resort by any stretch of the imagination but it was a very welcome first stop. Parking was super easy (and very secure) and the staff at the welcome desk were really friendly. We hired 2 loungers and a parasol without any issue (but we were there on a weekday!). The Lido has an on-site mini shop, plenty of bars and a self service all day restaurant (great pasta etc and all very reasonable!). It was the perfect place to base ourselves for a day, given the heat and tired children!

Bonus Holiday – Part 2 (Thank you Easyjet!).

So, after our planned week in the sun, our return flights to the UK were cancelled (there had been a fire at Catania airport). We were booked onto a flight the following day and so we checked in to Sicily Country House and Beach hotel (EasyJet stipulate that you have to stay in 3* or equivalent accommodation if you plan to claim back the cost). Check in was really easy – the man at reception couldn’t have been more helpful and even had our room ready by 10am! The room itself, whilst basic, had fab air-conditioning (much needed in 46 degree heat!) and a mini fridge! We dumped our bags and went straight to the pool (again, slightly tired but more than adequate) before having lunch at the bar. The afternoon was spent lounging by the pool, walking through the orange groves down to the private beach (didn’t see a soul!), and playing in the on-site play park and air-conditioned games room (the children loved it!). We had originally planned on visiting Catania for dinner but to be honest the heat got the better of us and we were all slightly frazzled by the upheaval of cancelled flights. Instead, we chose to eat in the on-site restaurant (thank you EasyJet!).

This is where things got slightly more interesting. Our re-arranged flight was also cancelled and a quick read of the news led us to realise that no flights were going to be taking off from Catania anytime soon. So, after a slightly panicked discussion, we chose to re-book onto an alternative flight, this time from Palermo (on the opposite side of the Island), via Amsterdam and in two days time……

We had to return our car to Catania airport (our cheap as chips car hire place didn’t have a base in Palermo….) and we secured what must have been the last Europcar at the airport (the alternative would have been a stupidly long bus journey to Palermo with no loo stops and two children!). After a McDonalds in an airconditioned shopping centre we hit the road and drove to Palermo.

We couldn’t find a 3* hotel so instead we checked into another Airbnb – this time a new holiday home perched on a cliff out in the countryside. The gorgeous apartment had shared access to a small, but wonderful, pool, bbq and some toys/table football. We were to have two nights (one full day) here.

After a leisurely morning by the pool we decided to check out Cefalu (around 47 minutes from our new base).

Cefalu

Anchored between salty water and craggy rock sits the charming small town of Cefalù. An ancient fishing port at heart, in relatively recent years it has apparently become the beachside break of choice for those seeking sun and sand along the Tyrrhenian coast of Sicily. I can see why – it was probably my favourite Sicilian town! We parked up at Parking Dafne (just off Cortile Belvedere) and took a short walk to L’Angelo Delle Dolcezze Pasticceria Gelateria. The little take out shop was packed with families and students and for good reason – yet more delicious Sicilian gelato! We then strolled along the promenade, admiring the beach before entering the old town. The old town itself is full of character, lined with beautiful authentic houses, great restaurants, and small Sicilian shops. One stop to look out for is the Medieval Laundry House – the perfect place to cool down in summer months! Dinner was at Da Sasá Ristorante Pizzeria, a restaurant with the most stunning sea views a short walk out the other side of the old town. I had booked in advance, via Facebook messenger, and I’m glad I had, it was quickly full and people were being turned away. Whilst soaking up the last of the Sicilian sunsets, we enjoyed some delicious pasta and pizzas all washed down with yet another beautiful Sicilian wine.

Time to go home….

We did eventually make it home. Our flight from Palermo was late leaving (and we took off with a forest fire surrounding the airport) and our onward flight from Amsterdam was cancelled. We had a night in a hotel in Amsterdam before booking alternative flights home the next day. What an adventure it was.

For the record, EasyJet were great at getting the money reimbursed and so our bonus days didn’t actually end up costing us anything other than time!